34 tooth cassette recommendation

Discussion in 'Q' started by Plazebo, Jul 5, 2013.

  1. Plazebo

    Plazebo Member

    Hi,

    Has anyone changed their cassette on a Quest 2.0/3.0 (dual drive)? Specifically a 34 tooth large cog?

    I'm a little uncertain about which one to get.

    Facts (Quest 2.0 ):
    - 28 tooth largest cog
    - Supplied dual drive manual says 34 tooth
    - YBN-SFL-9 chain (not SRAM / Shimano)

    It seems possible the cassette is NOT SRAM. And I've seen it written that SRAM / Shimano is not always interchangeable. I'd prefer not to find out the hard way what cassette is best.

    Alternatively, can someone tell me exactly what make / model cassette is on a Quest 2.0? The cogs have E11 stamped on them.

    I've narrowed possible replacement cassettes down to SRAM PG980/PG990 or Shimano M760/m770.

    Another possibility is that the chain won't be long enough anyway. In which case cassette compatibility with existing chain is no longer relevant.

    Thanks in advance,
    Pete
     
  2. Plazebo

    Plazebo Member

    Shimano M770 success

    I ended up trying a higher-end Shimano M770. Mostly because it was convenient and I wanted to keep the weight down. The largest cogs are 26/30/34, so it really has 1.5 more low end gears than the original (28).

    It installed cleanly although I had to dispense with the plastic spoke guard because the cassette had studs that interfered with it. And the studs do much the same job anyway. The net weight difference is negligible.

    One caveat is that certain cassette removal sockets won't work with the IGH shifting rod. Fortunately I had the right tool and didn't need to try and remove the rod.

    After fiddling with barrel adjuster on the grip shift the new cassette worked at least as well as the original cassette. The hills didn't seem as menacing on my test ride. And I was surprised at how easily I took to the lowest gear as I had feared the lower speed would be difficult to manage.

    Something worth mentioning is that getting into the highest ('downhill') internal gear seemed a little difficult. I'm hoping it's not related to the different shape of the cassette core and unnatural pressure being applied to the side of the IGH.

    Some pics (bearing in mind I'm no expert)...

    Clearance of original 28 tooth cog:
    alt="Clearance of derailleur with 28 tooth cog" [​IMG]

    Clearance of new 34 tooth cog seems fine:
    alt="Clearance of derailleur with 34 tooth cog" [​IMG]

    Chain length on new 34 tooth cog seems OK (just):
    alt="Chain length with 34 tooch cog" [​IMG]
     
  3. low wong

    low wong Member

    Well done! I ended up my

    Well done! I ended up my Quest 451 with 32t cog only.
     
  4. WOB

    WOB Member

    11-36 in the Offing…

    Howdy Pete,

    Thanks for posting this information and the photos - I'm planning to take the same approach with my new Q3-559, so eager to hear if the change has met your expectations?

    The 11-34 cassette should bring our bikes down to within 3-4% of the low end gearing enjoyed by Q1-559 riders. Since the jumps between cassette cogs typically range from 12-18%, I'm hopeful that this will be close enough!

    That said, SunRace will be coming out with a 9-speed 11-36 cassette that should be available around mid-August (http://www.amazon.com/Sunrace-9-Speed-Nickel-Cassette-Lockring/dp/B00D9NCXJQ) [and an equivalent (heavier) CSM98 with solid cogs as opposed to a spider).

    Now, the SRAM DualDrive 27 is only rated to 34-teeth, but it sure looks to me as though the RD would clear 36; and I've been (unofficially) advised that the derailleur can be swapped for a long cage that definitely should work. [Has anyone succeeded in a 36T set-up with the DualDrive to date - e.g. Shimano CS-HG61 = 12-36 ?]

    Incidentally, the conventional approach for determining chain length is to bypass the derailleur completely, and just run the chain over the biggest cassette cog and largest chain ring*, and then ensure that there are two overlapping links when the chain is pulled taut. In the case of our e-rings, I think it may be OK to avoid the derailleur bypass and just be certain that the derailleur still allows some range of deflection when the "high side" of the elliptical ring is parallel to the chain line.

    Thanks again for the info - I'll likely go with a SRAM PG950 [which Utah Trikes offers at $29.95], for now & hope it will prove adequate!

    Cheerio, Bill

    * a worst-case combo which should never be selected intentionally while riding
     
  5. Plazebo

    Plazebo Member

    36 - Risky

    Hey Bill (WOB),

    I couldn't find any mention of alternate cassette usage and was happy to discover 34t SRAM/Shimano written in the manual. 36t felt a little too risky, rare and not that much better than 34t. From my experience, Murphy was probably trying to fix his bike when he thought of his law.

    I was happy to have 13t at the smaller end but 11t was all I could find.

    Other people might have changed the front chain ring but I really wanted to keep the elliptical e-ring.

    Also, I read that there should be 4 overlapping links when bypassing the RD (or 2 pairs). But having opened a modern chain recently I find I'm loathed to do it again.

    - Pete
     
  6. jphipps

    jphipps Member

    11-32 XT

    I used a Shimano XT 11-32 and the shifting is better than the original 11-28, getting up hills is easier and not so much shifting as the original 11-28. The needed tools are a chain whip and a cassette lock ring tool (icetoolz.com makes one that will fit). The lock ring tools mentioned in the manual do not work as they are short or have interference.
     
  7. Jim Gaw

    Jim Gaw New Member

    Cassette lock ring tool for changing cassette

    Hi,

    The 11-28 gearing on my Quest559 3.0 does not give me a low enough gear for the mountains of Colorado where I live. I have ordered and received an 11-34 SRAM cassette, but I don't have the correct cassette lock ring tool (cassette removal socket). Can someone please tell me exactly what tool is needed (brand and item number)?

    Also, is there any particular sequence to exchanging the cassette? Do we need to remove the axle nut or cone nuts and the axle to remove the cassette? (I don't think so, but I'd like to ask before I proceed.)

    Finally, will the original derailleur and chain handle the 34t cassette? If not, what will I need?

    Thanks,
    Jim
     
  8. Rick Youngblood

    Rick Youngblood Well-Known Member

    Jim - here is the first

    Jim - here is the first link:

    http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-FR-5G-Cassette-Lockring/dp/B000R9ACZC/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1400119348&sr=1-1&keywords=cassette+lockring+tool

    Not sure what happened to it in the first post.

    Edit - first link is now working!
     
  9. Rick Youngblood

    Rick Youngblood Well-Known Member

    Hi Jim - here is the tool I

    Hi Jim - here is the tool I use: http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-FR-5G-Cassette-Lockring/dp/B000R9ACZC/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1400119348&sr=1-1&keywords=cassette+lockring+tool

    There are others that will work as well.

    You may also need one of these http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Sprocket-Remover-Header/dp/B000OZBKGE/ref=pd_sim_sg_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1A51FA35FHK8MBSDHA4R - it holds the cassette in place as you use the above tool.

    You will only need to remove the quick release hub skewer.

    Here is a YouTube video: http://youtu.be/jx9zNW7fhjY

    Hope this helps!
     
  10. Jim Gaw

    Jim Gaw New Member

    Re: Here is the tool!

    Hi Rick,

    Thanks for the rapid reply. I opened the link and saw the picture of the tool. It has a center pin that would seem to collide with the axle on the SRAM Dual Drive Internally Geared 3-speed hub.

    Is it possible that you meant this one: Park Tool Cassette/Rotor Lockring Removal Tool - FR-5/FR-5G as seen at:
    http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Cassette-Lockring-Removal/dp/B000WY8LNC/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1400123298&sr=1-1&keywords=Park+Tool+Cassette%2FRotor+Lockring+Removal+Tool

    Or am I missing something?

    Thanks,
    Jim
     
  11. Rick Youngblood

    Rick Youngblood Well-Known Member

    Hi Jim - I must have missed

    Hi Jim - I must have missed that you have a Dual Drive - I can't say for sure, I have not worked with the Dual Drive.

    Try posing the question on the BROL site http://www.bentrideronline.com/messageboard/forumdisplay.php?f=2 . I'm sure you will get some quick great answers over there.

    Be sure to state the you have the Sram Dual Drive, and the size of your derailleur, short, med, or long. And chairings, how many and tooth size.
     
  12. ratz

    ratz Well-Known Member

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