Equipment List For An S40 Build

n316rv

Member
I am putting an equipment list together for an S40. I have worked on bikes for years and replaced many parts, but never built a bike from the frame up. Most of my experience is also with mountain bike components. I would request that some of you experienced guys review my equipment list and give it a sanity check to ensure that everything will play together well, work efficiently, and is the most bang for the buck. Wanted to have everything need for the build before I start. I am 6’-1” and 230 pounds (so I need sturdy wheels). I would like to build a fast road bike. Although I need some climbing ability, I ride mostly flat and rolling terrain (North Alabama). Due to neck issues, the seat angle of a Vendetta removes it from my list. This is also my first FWD MBB bike. I currently ride a Giro 26 ATT and a Phantom Lightning. Thanks in advance for the assistance.


Velocity Aileron Disc Clydesdale Wheelset, 700c, 36 spoke, 130 mm / 100 mm hubs

700c x 25-28 tires, plan on running tubed tires – specific suggestions?

SRAM GXP 165mm 50-34T Rival OCT Compact Crankset

Sram Rival Road Shift/brake Levers, 10 - Speed

SRAM PG1070 10-Speed Cassette 11-36

SRAM RIVAL Double Front Derailleur Braze – On, 10 - Speed Bottom Pull

SRAM X0 Type 2.1 10 Speed Long Cage Rear Derailleur

TRP Spyre Mechanical Disc Brake; Brk-160

TRP-14 Standard Rotors 160 mm


RavX Disc Brake Adaptor - Post - IS F:160 R:140

RavX Disc Brake Adaptor - Post - IS R:160

SRAM PC 1071 Hollow Pin Chain 10 speed

Thanks

Alan
 

trapdoor2

Zen MBB Master
Looks really good to me. Gearing is very similar to what I'm running on my V20 (except I'm running an 11sp setup). I have trouble with some of the hills here in south Huntsville...but that's a powerplant issue. I think the seating position of the S40 would allow me to creep along at lower rolling speeds, so I would think I would probably try one of those Wolf Tooth cogs, say a 49t for the steeper hills. I'd stick with the 11-36 to start though.

If I had a S40, I wouldn't hesitate to run fatter tires also...32 or 35s. Currently running "Thickslick" 700c X 28, which are holding up quite well.

When you get her together and you would like some help getting started (or simply someone to cheer you on), don't hesitate to ask me!
 

ratz

Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
1) SRAM PC 1071 Hollow Pin Chain 10 speed
Get the KMC x10sl gold instead

2)Sram Rival Road Shift/brake Levers, 10 - Speed
These are hard to find as they are now 11speed by default You may have to get APEX if you want 10speed but this year's Apex is last years Rival.
 

3WHELZ

Guru
I too am assembling a wishlist for a S40 build. Any thought of a TRP HY/RD over straight mechanical?
 

n316rv

Member
Thanks for the feedback guys.
Trapdoor2 - I'll give you a shout someday when I have it together.
Thanks
Alan
 

trapdoor2

Zen MBB Master
I too am assembling a wishlist for a S40 build. Any thought of a TRP HY/RD over straight mechanical?
I put the HY/RD brakes on my V20 and would not hesitate to put a set on an S40. Easy to install, easy to set-up...have worked perfectly.
 

Jeremy S

Dude
SRAM RIVAL Double Front Derailleur Braze – On, 10 - Speed Bottom Pull

The Rival 22 (Yaw) FD will work with the same brifters, shift a bit better, and give you more usable gear combinations. (However, I have never seen perfect setup instructions for it.)
 

Rod Butler

Well-Known Member
Velocity Aileron disc Clydesdale, 700c, 36 spoke. Very nice. My current thought is to pair them up with Continental Four Season (32mm) tires.
The specs say the rims will take 25mm-47mm and the walls are pretty tough on those tires, so that combo is the front runner for me at the moment.
On the home page Blog drop down, the S40 images there have 700c wheels with 32mm tires and the T R P Spire 160mm. Looks good to me.
 

n316rv

Member
The Rival 22 (Yaw) FD will work with the same brifters, shift a bit better, and give you more usable gear combinations. (However, I have never seen perfect setup instructions for it.)
Jeremy
Pardon my question, but I'm a bit new to road components. According to SRAM web page, Rival 22 Yaw FD is only 11 speed. So I can use this with a 10 speed setup and Rival non-yaw shifters?
Thanks
Alan
 

Jeremy S

Dude
Jeremy
Pardon my question, but I'm a bit new to road components. According to SRAM web page, Rival 22 Yaw FD is only 11 speed. So I can use this with a 10 speed setup and Rival non-yaw shifters?
Thanks
Alan

Yes. The Rival 22 RD is 11 speed. The FD is 2 speed. So, the Rival 22 FD will work with any 2 speed SRAM brifter. SRAM does not change their cable pull rates often. I'm using this combination (started with an older Rival FD and upgraded to Yaw), as are others on this forum I believe. The only downside is that the older brifter has an extra click for a "trim" position that is not needed with Yaw, more of an aesthetic problem than a functional one.

Just curious -- why not go 11 speed, since that seems to be the status quo? I have an 11-32 10 speed cassette and I would not mind smaller gaps.
 
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joy

Well-Known Member
And for people like me who have never built a bike up before, you need more than one chain for an 11/36, 34/50. (About 5 more ")
And Niagra Cycle had 10 speed Rival brifters.
 
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I recall Some filing of the mounts was required when @Doug Kline did an S40 a few weeks ago.

I had to do a little filing of the rear dropout weld on my V20 to clear a centerlock disc lockring. If you use a 6-bolt rotor it would probably clear without filing and a different type of centerlock lockring might have also cleared. When I transferred the disc brakes over to the S40 there was plenty of clearance without filing anything.

You might also want to look at the Yokozuna Motoko disc brakes. I switched to those and just ran 700+ miles on them including mountain stages. The brakes come with anemic pads, but I used Swissstop Disc 16s sintered pads on them and they had plenty of power, but the sintered pads sang to me a bit. I'll switch to try Swissstop organic disc 16 pads over the next few days while riding normal size hills.

I had two problems with the Hy/Rd calipers. 1) combined with SRAM Force levers, the pull is too long to engage which would pull the shift paddle nearly all the way to the grip tape. 2) the rear was very hard to adjust since the viewing angle is so awkward. The Motoko calipers are more open and easier to see, easier to adjust, and require less lever pull. They take Shimano XTR pads (Disc 16 in Swissstop lingo) so there should be plenty of pad choices available.

I should say that I have ridden some screaming descents with the Hy/Rd brakes and they are very powerful, I just find them hard to work with.
 
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