Mongoose Incline, Ledge and Hyper Havoc bikes at Wal-mart

[bws308]

26" Mongoose Incline $150 - added here on June 13th as a better example conversion donor with lower top tube, threadless stem (Aheadset) but not the required tapered seatpost which you would need to buy separately:

26" Mongoose Ledge 2.1 Men's Mountain Bike:

and the 26" Hyper Havoc MTB Men's Bike:

Both bikes are very low cost ($120-$130) with aluminum frames, alloy rims, and dual suspension. Components, as usual with the cheapest bikes, are iffy. So, which would be preferable for a Cruzbike conversion, if either?

I'm leaning toward the Mongoose for the more-recognized (famous?/infamous?) name, the newer style rear suspension (though heavier with more pivot points and steel parts), and the better reviews overall. Personally, I like the look of the Hyper bike more and it's lighter by a few pounds.

I'm also wondering about the placement of the cable braze-ons, on the top side of the top tube on the Hyper bike. How will that positioning affect the Cruzbike seat base mounting bracket and clamps? Of course, only 1 cable will remain after conversion - to the rear brake - so it can be re-routed somehow, and the braze-ons cut off if necessary, but still a bit of trouble that could be avoided by choosing the Mongoose.

Looking at them together on the same page, I can see the Mongoose has a substantially lower angled top tube so it's probably the better one for seat mounting, aerodynamics and a lower center of gravity.

I am 5'10", 150 lbs., 32" inseam and a 40-42" x-seam.

Thanks,
Brian

 

[Charles.Plager]

Seat height would be my

Seat height would be my biggest concern. Brand name is completely irrelevant as the company isn't the same it was when the brand became known.

And yes, a braze on could get in the way of the seat, but could be filed off if necessary.
Cheers, Charles

 

[bws308]

Thanks for the input, Charles!

Both the Mongoose and Hyper bikes are not shown on their websites so they could very likely just be licensed frame decals, and that's it, or maybe they at least designed the frames.

Can anyone supply the dimensions of the Cruzbike seat base? Until I actually buy a conversion kit, I may try cutting a piece of wood to approximate the size and shape (taping it up with some light padding under the tape to keep from scratching frames) and try a stationary straddle test on the bikes at the store.

Also, besides the obvious of not being able to reach the ground easily and worse aerodynamics, is there a known issue with having a higher center of gravity that affects steering or handling, in general or under certain circumstances? One positive thing is you'd be more visible to drivers, though I often seem to be invisible even in hi-visibility yellow jerseys on an upright DF bike.

Thanks,
Brian

 

[Charles.Plager]

Hi Brian,
Doug Burton stated

Hi Brian,

Doug Burton stated that you basically want the seat to be 4 inches or below your inseam. If the seat is an inch (you can assume 2 to be conservative), then you should have 5 to 6 inches over the bar.

The problen with too high a center of mass is that it makes it more likely that you'll fly forward over the front wheel when stopping hard.

I'm guessing the first bike has a lower stand-over height and would work for somebody of your height (I've been wrong before).

The last thing I'll warn you about is that with bikes this cheap, the components aren't very good and may quickly drive you nuts. But you should be able to get a good feel for the bike and you'll be able to upgrade them as you see fit.

Let us know how it goes.

Cheers,
Charles

 

[bws308]

Thanks again, Charles

You're most likely right about the components and I expect to change out parts, especially in the drivetrain, with new ones or some used ones from my 2001 model Trek 4500 that's still in good shape.

I've already bought some very light and well-rated 26" wheels and a few other parts from Nashbar, and will probably buy a conversion kit next, then either the Mongoose, the Hyper, or a Y-frame bike off Craigslist if I see one in the next weeks.

My inseam is 32" but crotch-to-floor measurement (with shoes) is at least 34". I just measured my Trek 4500 (17.5" frame) and have about 5" clearance, so I may even try that before buying another whole bike, though it's a hardtail. Should get even more clearance with the narrow, lower profile, smaller diameter road tires I have for it.

I'll keep you posted as things happen.

Cheers, Brian


2001 Trek 4500:

and I also have a 2008 Montague folding bike, which has about 5" of clearance, but a very fat elliptical top tube:

 

[bws308]

Went shopping...

...came back with nothing but info. Maybe someone else is considering these, so here's some info:

On the price tags it is noted that the Mongoose brand along with Schwinn, GT and Iron Horse are all now licensed brands of a company called "Pacific Cycle, Inc." which in turn is a U.S. subsidiary of a Canadian company. Wikipedia says the company "sells more bicycles than any other company in North America and is one of the most prolific bicycle suppliers in the world." Of course, the bikes are only designed and marketed in North America, but are manufactured in Taiwan or China.

Maybe someday Cruzbike will be a Pacific Cycle brand, once they become wildly popular and it's time to consider "selling out."

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pacific_Cycle
http://www.pacificcycle.com/

The Hyper Havoc bike is made by "Ballard Pacific Resources":
http://www.ballardpacific.com/About_Us.html

Both bikes are heavier than I expected, due to all steel parts (less rims, brake levers, seatpost QR and front frame tubes which are aluminum, based on magnet test). Frame size was 17" and standover height (where middle of Cruzbike seat would fit) is 28" to 29". So, they are both a bit high but manageable with long legs and/or high-heeled shoes.

I didn't buy either. Still considering options...

 

[Doug Burton]

Pacific and other brands of this type...

... are essentially holding companies, buying off-the-shelf designs produced mostly in China. If you look carefully across the Walmart, Target and Toy-r-Us websites you'll see the same few design over and over again with different brand logos on them. Next, Mongoose, Huffy, Kawasaki and Schwinn are all in this game.

Suitable conversion frames among new bikes are becoming harder to find, as these companies generally imitate the latest frame geometries being used by Trek and other top-line companies. When they went away from Y-frames, the China manufacturers did, too.

This is why we offer the V2K frame.

Low top tube height is probably the key frame parameter, as having a too-high seat can reduce stability under panic braking, and make starting off in traffic more entertaining than desired.

Craigslist is a good place to source decent used Y-frame bikes, usually with components that are superior used to Walmart components new.

Cheers,

Doug

 

[Ian Smith]

Recent kit experience

If it were my choice in bikes I would look for one with the A-head steering and not the quill type. i.e. go for the one with the stack of large shims around the stem where the handle bars clamp on. Whilst the kit says it can do the quill type, I've had to butcher a donor bike for shims and spacers to make it fit due to my quill being a different size to the components. It's a good thing the donor bike was a TKO anyway.

Fitting the kit to a bike with the A-head stem will not require this level of mechanical modification. A plus is that I got to use my Dremmel for the first time during this build.

 

[bws308]

Added another bike in the opening post

The Mongoose Incline at Walmart for $150 looks like the best bet. It has a threadless stem and V-brakes but not a tapered seatpost.

Its color scheme mixes old and new Sofrider colors pretty nicely. Too bad it's only available for mail order so can't see one at a store.

 

[Charles.Plager]

HI bws308,
I agree that your

HI bws308,

I agree that your last bike looks the best for a conversion. AS you pointed out, seatposts are cheap and readily available, so that won't be a problem. If the bike is for sale at Walmart, you can buy it ship-to-store. You'll have to put it together, but you shouldn't have a problem returning it if you don't like it.

(I'd recommend looking at Craig's List, too, as I think you might find a bike for the same price with better components, but I do think these bikes will work and you'll be able to replace the pieces you want as you want).

Let us know how it goes,
Charles

 

[Ian Smith]

Grease

If you're looking at keeping it for a while, I'd also recommend going through the bearings, cleaning and re-greasing with a better grease. I use marine grade grease on all my work. Normally the cheaper bikes use almost no grease where it counts (i.e. wheel bearings).

You may not need to get a new seatpost. Measure the seatpost diameter and check the required seatpost diameter for the seat mount (22mm?). You may only have to chop the top of the post off and mount directly to that.