T50 - whatcha planning to build.....
- Thread starter ratz
- Start date
Charles.Plager
Recumbent Quant
That particular roll was after 2 1/2, maybe 3 cups of Sweet Marias Ethiopia Yirga Cheffe Araya Buna.
I'm on a Yigra Cheffe streak myself.
Charles.Plager
Recumbent Quant
I used 123mm with my triples. (118 might work, but whatever came default on Sofrider didn't.)
I figured out my problem with my middle gears. I had to adjust the cable tension a bit. It turns out that on my M8000 setup, gears 3,4 and 5 are the most sensitive to cable tension.
This time I made sure to put the barrel adjuster in a center position when I attached the cable to the derailleur so that I could adjust both ways. I had to reduce tension to get the derailleur to shift into 3rd gear from both direction and to run quietly.
Now I can be more confident in recommending the Shimano M8000 11 speed 11-46 cassette and matching shifter and derailleur for any wanting to run a 1x11.
This time I made sure to put the barrel adjuster in a center position when I attached the cable to the derailleur so that I could adjust both ways. I had to reduce tension to get the derailleur to shift into 3rd gear from both direction and to run quietly.
Now I can be more confident in recommending the Shimano M8000 11 speed 11-46 cassette and matching shifter and derailleur for any wanting to run a 1x11.
ratz
Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
You have unlocked the derailleur tuning badge.
Starting in the middle is normal; limit screw takes care of the rest; if we'd been more awake someone would have pointed that out; go on ya for sticking with it and figuring it out; that type of knowledge always comes in handy later.
Eric Winn
Zen MBB Master
Got both bikes completely assembled and adjusted.
Interestingly, the second T50 didn't have the same problem as the first T50. Seat skewers went in fine, steerer extension wasn't as tight although I figured out a better way to avoid binding is to use a curved file on the inside of the extension to file down some raised and sharp edges from the slot and hole.
Anybody know what size headset wrench will work to turn the threaded adjuster doohickey to take the slack out of the head stack bearing play?
The item on top in the image below with the tiny little #2 screw. The two pieces are threaded together. Looks like you screw them apart to expand the space taken up-down, presumably to take out the bearing stack play. I don't have a headset wrench and i don't think I have a caliper big enough to measure it. Probably need two wrenches - one for the bottom half the other for the top half.
NOTE: In the photo below are 3 items (top to bottom):
-Eric
Interestingly, the second T50 didn't have the same problem as the first T50. Seat skewers went in fine, steerer extension wasn't as tight although I figured out a better way to avoid binding is to use a curved file on the inside of the extension to file down some raised and sharp edges from the slot and hole.
Anybody know what size headset wrench will work to turn the threaded adjuster doohickey to take the slack out of the head stack bearing play?
The item on top in the image below with the tiny little #2 screw. The two pieces are threaded together. Looks like you screw them apart to expand the space taken up-down, presumably to take out the bearing stack play. I don't have a headset wrench and i don't think I have a caliper big enough to measure it. Probably need two wrenches - one for the bottom half the other for the top half.
NOTE: In the photo below are 3 items (top to bottom):
- Expandable spacer (with itty bitty screw collar)
- Top cap
- Split plastic filler/spacer
-Eric
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Eric Winn
Zen MBB Master
Enough playing around. Time to get out the pipe cutter.
What did you do to get the seat to recline so far? Didn't look like a reasonable way to trim the rear strut assembly. Can you take photos of what you've done and post them?
-Eric
I learned a couple other things that might help others today.
I am using Compass Naches Pass tires (44-559) on Velocity Atlas rims. I had the wheels built by prowheelbuilder.com. I am very happy with them. Yesterday I rode at 3 bar. Today I rode at 2 bar.
2 bar doesn't feel any slower and it is a lot more comfortable on the bumps. Don't be afraid to go low on your pressure if you have supple tires and wide enough rims.
On dry blacktop, I can climb a 20% grade for a short distance without wheel slip. On my trike, I need less than 20 gear inches to climb this. On my Haluzak Horizon, I needed around 23 gear inches to climb this. I made it on about 25 gear inches today.
If you want to use a 40T chain ring on the front, you will get pretty close to the traction limit with a 42 as the biggest cog on the back.
So, knowing what I know now, I would consider the 11-42 version of the M8000 cassette in place of the 11-46 for a 1x11. The 2nd cog is a 37 for both cassettes. With my 36T chainring, I made the climb in 2nd gear. This suggests that with the 11-46 that I have, I could go up to a 44 tooth chainring. But I have a big gap from 1 to 2. With the 11-42, my chainring would be a 40T, but gap from 1 to 2 would be smaller so that I would be able to optimize better on steep and slightly less steep.
If I can find a 42T chainring, that is probably a good choice for me.
I am using Compass Naches Pass tires (44-559) on Velocity Atlas rims. I had the wheels built by prowheelbuilder.com. I am very happy with them. Yesterday I rode at 3 bar. Today I rode at 2 bar.
2 bar doesn't feel any slower and it is a lot more comfortable on the bumps. Don't be afraid to go low on your pressure if you have supple tires and wide enough rims.
On dry blacktop, I can climb a 20% grade for a short distance without wheel slip. On my trike, I need less than 20 gear inches to climb this. On my Haluzak Horizon, I needed around 23 gear inches to climb this. I made it on about 25 gear inches today.
If you want to use a 40T chain ring on the front, you will get pretty close to the traction limit with a 42 as the biggest cog on the back.
So, knowing what I know now, I would consider the 11-42 version of the M8000 cassette in place of the 11-46 for a 1x11. The 2nd cog is a 37 for both cassettes. With my 36T chainring, I made the climb in 2nd gear. This suggests that with the 11-46 that I have, I could go up to a 44 tooth chainring. But I have a big gap from 1 to 2. With the 11-42, my chainring would be a 40T, but gap from 1 to 2 would be smaller so that I would be able to optimize better on steep and slightly less steep.
If I can find a 42T chainring, that is probably a good choice for me.
Eric Winn
Zen MBB Master
I'm running 2.5 bar (36psi) on 40-559 tires, which is the recommended inflation on the sidewall. Sunlite tire on Alrexrims MD23 wheels. Very comfortable.
42 teeth single, guarded crank ring with 11-34 cassette (I think). SRAM 8-speed grip shifter and SRAM X3 rear derailleur. Climbing my neighbor's steep driveway in the 34 cog was pretty easy. No wheel slip on bare asphalt. Got a little slip on some sand and/or pine needles on the side.
This is all "complete" bike spec from Kickstarter/Robert. Really nice rig. Waxing the chain is just about required as removing and replacing the drive wheel without a cage lock derailleur is a royal PITA.
I have a 58-559 Compass Rat Trap Pass that I bought for my velomobile. I'm thinking two of those would fit on the T50...
-Eric
42 teeth single, guarded crank ring with 11-34 cassette (I think). SRAM 8-speed grip shifter and SRAM X3 rear derailleur. Climbing my neighbor's steep driveway in the 34 cog was pretty easy. No wheel slip on bare asphalt. Got a little slip on some sand and/or pine needles on the side.
This is all "complete" bike spec from Kickstarter/Robert. Really nice rig. Waxing the chain is just about required as removing and replacing the drive wheel without a cage lock derailleur is a royal PITA.
I have a 58-559 Compass Rat Trap Pass that I bought for my velomobile. I'm thinking two of those would fit on the T50...
-Eric
That is the one that I got.
You probably have better power to weight ratio than I do.
I measured about a 15mm clearance for front with my 44-559 tires. If the 44 and 58 are accurate, it will be very close.
I was lucky enough to pledge green T-50 frameset; but unfortunately I am out of country leaving the just-arrived-frameset-boxes untouched in Korea. I am going back home on early September, but I am still busy with preparing my ingredient for my new green T-50 to be. Here are those:
a.26” Mavic Crossroad with 1.6” Schwalbe Supreme tyres
b.Trp Spyre mechanical disk brakes with 160 mm rotors front and back
c.Trp brake levers
d.Origin8 CitiClassic along with adjustable 90mm stem
e.Ergongrip GS-1 (released in 2014 and compatible with sram xx-1)
f.Sram NX 1x11 grip shifter with rear derailleur type3
g.Sram PG-1130 11-42 Sprocket
h.Sram PC-1110 chain
i.Sram NX crank 155mm with 32t chainring (34, 36t available from Sram)
j.GXP BB 68/73 BSA
k.Comet brake and shift cables
l.Minoura Gamoh KCL-1R King Carrier Rear Rack for commuting
They are keep changing in my brain and as I see the recent thread on the forum. It will keep changing for a little while more. Anyhow these are what I have in mind until I found Sram released GX Eagle recently. (https://www.pinkbike.com/news/gx-eagle-srams-new-wallet-friendly-12-speed-drivetrain.html) I find that I can change the drivetrain parts completely with extra $300 or so. I am considering this option as well.
A.Sram GX 1x12 grip shifter with derailleur
B.Sram GX Eagle 10-50t with Sram XD body
C.Sram X-2 crank 165mm direct-mounted 32t chainring (34, 36 and 38 plain/oval type direct mound chaingrings are available from Sram)
Does anyone here ever considered to put them on your Cruzebike? In my humble opinions, this giant 50t surely allow me upgrade my chaingring to 38/40t so that I could enjoy more speed on downhill and plain terrain with lower cogs of sprockets while commuting. As I am 5’ 8” tall with x-seam 40”, available GX Eagle 165mm crank arm might not short enough for me. 165mm might work; I’m not sure it will serve me very well though. As GX Eagle chainring is directed mounted I have more options to choose like oval chainring and bigger chainrings—38t and 40t—are available. The maintenance cost might be much higher compared to NX 1x11 as sprockets cannot be replaced cog by cog and chains are not commonly available in the market so far. But I kind of want to try them as it looks cool and brand-new. How do you like the Eagle and please give your thoughts to consider for me.
a.26” Mavic Crossroad with 1.6” Schwalbe Supreme tyres
b.Trp Spyre mechanical disk brakes with 160 mm rotors front and back
c.Trp brake levers
d.Origin8 CitiClassic along with adjustable 90mm stem
e.Ergongrip GS-1 (released in 2014 and compatible with sram xx-1)
f.Sram NX 1x11 grip shifter with rear derailleur type3
g.Sram PG-1130 11-42 Sprocket
h.Sram PC-1110 chain
i.Sram NX crank 155mm with 32t chainring (34, 36t available from Sram)
j.GXP BB 68/73 BSA
k.Comet brake and shift cables
l.Minoura Gamoh KCL-1R King Carrier Rear Rack for commuting
They are keep changing in my brain and as I see the recent thread on the forum. It will keep changing for a little while more. Anyhow these are what I have in mind until I found Sram released GX Eagle recently. (https://www.pinkbike.com/news/gx-eagle-srams-new-wallet-friendly-12-speed-drivetrain.html) I find that I can change the drivetrain parts completely with extra $300 or so. I am considering this option as well.
A.Sram GX 1x12 grip shifter with derailleur
B.Sram GX Eagle 10-50t with Sram XD body
C.Sram X-2 crank 165mm direct-mounted 32t chainring (34, 36 and 38 plain/oval type direct mound chaingrings are available from Sram)
Does anyone here ever considered to put them on your Cruzebike? In my humble opinions, this giant 50t surely allow me upgrade my chaingring to 38/40t so that I could enjoy more speed on downhill and plain terrain with lower cogs of sprockets while commuting. As I am 5’ 8” tall with x-seam 40”, available GX Eagle 165mm crank arm might not short enough for me. 165mm might work; I’m not sure it will serve me very well though. As GX Eagle chainring is directed mounted I have more options to choose like oval chainring and bigger chainrings—38t and 40t—are available. The maintenance cost might be much higher compared to NX 1x11 as sprockets cannot be replaced cog by cog and chains are not commonly available in the market so far. But I kind of want to try them as it looks cool and brand-new. How do you like the Eagle and please give your thoughts to consider for me.
I used to run my former recumbent, reformer 26" highracer, with 170mm 42-26 oval chainring and 11-28 road chainring. Front 42 and rear 15 is my favorite at the plain road without any up and downs. As this T-50 with 26" thick tires might be more heavier than my racer, I'll start with 32t chainring and see how I am doing and go bigger ones.
Thanks.
DavidJL
Well-Known Member
Just got done doing a seat mod. Drilled a pair of holes 3 inches further up the seat back, also drilled a set of holes 1.5 inches up for an intermediate position. Made a guide block on the drill press to make sure holes are in correct location, used a scrap of wood for that. So the original strut can still be used. As Eric Winn did, it is necessary to file the inside of the extension tube around the slot to remove the bur. Still thinking strongly about doing the Emeljay steering mod. Looks like seat mod won't require a neck rest.
This is good idea. Show some pics, please. How does your mod laid down the seat?
@Eric Winn
I went to my local bike shop and they let me borrow headset wrenches. It took a 36mm and a 40mm.
I tightened it pretty tight and there might still be a little play. It seems solid when manipulating by hand and when riding.
There is some play in the system when pushing against a locked with brake front wheel. Does this mean that I need to get it tighter?
I went to my local bike shop and they let me borrow headset wrenches. It took a 36mm and a 40mm.
I tightened it pretty tight and there might still be a little play. It seems solid when manipulating by hand and when riding.
There is some play in the system when pushing against a locked with brake front wheel. Does this mean that I need to get it tighter?
