It arrived

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bladderhead's picture
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Got it!

Winter here in London is nasty weather so I will be assembling it slowly.  Also, I will be probably doing it wrong and taking it apart again.

Anyway happy Christmas everyone.
 

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Happy/Merry Christmas to you too!

Now I have to read your posts with an English accent. I didn't realise that is where you are located!
Enjoy building your Silvio; I don't think the fat man is putting one beneath my tree Sad

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Andrew, perhaps you can try

Andrew, perhaps you can try to read Ivan's and my posts in a Singaporean accent!

Roy

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Singaporean Accent?

Nah...too difficult. I have no idea what that would sound like.

Thanks to Dick Van Dyke in Mary Poppins, I have English down perfectly.

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FD routing

Just a little warning re the front derailleur cable routing: 
Using the pdf instructions (below) the mechanic from my excellent shop didn't understand how to route the cable housing AND install a barrel adjuster. I was out of town and could not intervene. He rigged something (I'll post a picture later).
Apparently there's something non-trivial about it.

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This picture doesn't show

This picture doesn't show where the barrel adjuster goes (on the boom). Maybe including it would have helped.

It also appears to show the cable housing (fatter purple line) positioned Ivan-style (stopping at rather than going through the hole near the bottom bracket). Probably it should show the housing positioned according to the original Cruzbike recommendation.

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The build process has

The build process has started.  Sort-of.  There was one thing of which I just had to make sure, right at the start.  I just got the front fork and put the Rohloff wheel in.  Very glad to say it fits easily.  Very slight stretch, hardly noticeable.  Mr Burton was right.  I don't have to sell the Rohloff on ebay and buy a di2.  Construction continues.

I knew I had forgotten to get some component or other.  I have a skewer lying around, but it's to short.  Must be for an ordinary hub.

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Where the rear stay meets the

Where the rear stay meets the seat stay, the holes do not line up.  I can't get the bolts through.  Has this happened to anyone else?  How can this be fixed?

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holes do not line up

Had the same issue on my 2.1. A round file will take care of it, ideally one that is somewhat close in diameter. You may also have to use a file on some of the male/female parts or sliding them together won't happen with or without a mallet.

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Reassured

Reassured to read that.  I tried to drill it but made no impression.  Going to buy a file.  Why can't the company that makes these drill holes accurately?

 

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Misaligned holes?

In this case, my guess is that all the frame parts fit perfectly together,
before the frame parts are painted.

My experience with assembling various two-wheeled vehicles in
a small custom motorcycle shop leads me to the above guess:
paint/anodized/plated coatings will always change the way the coated
part mates-up with or mounts to other parts.

In my tool kit, I still have an assortment of rat-tail files, round files, oval files.
flat files, sharpening stones, diamond stones and an assortment of tapered
steel alignment tools.

In a pinch, different grits of wet-or-dry sandpaper used with different sized
dowels and wood blocks will be a big help for fitting things together.

A Dremel tool is nice too, but because it's powered, it can get you into
trouble faster!

Good luck,

-Steve

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My colleague at work said I

My colleague at work said I should buy a drill bit for metal.  He said drilling would be quick.  Drill made no impression.  I bought a bigger bit.  It got stuck in the hole, and then flew out of the drill.  When I bought the file it took ten minutes to get the bolts in.

I am an idiot for listening to idiots at work.  Far cleverer idiots post here.  Thanks yakmurph and counterpoint for their wise words.
 

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Another problem.  The B

Another problem.  The B bracket shell seems to be too small both in diameter and length for the clamp.  The rings of the clamp are too far apart for them to clamp the shell.  I found screws that fit the rings of the clamp and screwed them as tight as they go.  I have screwed in the BB.  The rings do not tighten onto anything.

 

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I don't see where you mention

I don't see where you mention make and model BB.  Make sure your BB is compatible.  Not all of them are.  also make sure you are using the correct length screws. Some of us had too long screws and they bottom out before tightening the ring.  Be careful not to over torque those screws as some of us have broken them off doing so.

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My BB is Shimano UN55.  It

My BB is Shimano UN55.  It fits into the BB shell perfectly.  How can it be the wrong type?  Is the clamp supposed to grip the BB cups?
 

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It sounds like you have the wrong bb

It sounds like you have an internal bearing BB and you need external Bearing cups for the Silvio/vendetta. Take a look at any of the build posts on this site and compare the BB to yours.  The GXP style works well.   

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Major stage reached.  I got a

Major stage reached.  I got a compatible BB and fitted it and now the front triangle is together.  I have the basis of a bike.

I wanted to get a compatible crankset quickly, but I will probably get rid of the cranks eventually.  Because I have Rohloff I will not be using front gears, but the only crankset I could get quickly has a two chainwheels, and I don't think either are the right size for me.

But at least I will be able to ride it.
 

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The Rohloff has landed.  

The Rohloff has landed.
 

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The only thing I have done is

The only thing I have done is put the wheels on but I had to post this anyway.  After thinking the hub would fit I thought for a while that it wouldn't.  To those who are considering this hub: yes you can.

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The red hub goes well with

The red hub goes well with the new decals.

What size is the disc brake rotor? Looks like clearance is getting tight.

Also, have you tried it with the Monkeybone and OEM2 mounting plate - or whatever the pieces are that use the disc brake tabs to mount the lever arm?

http://www.cyclemonkey.com/monkey_bone.shtml

-Eric

 

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The disks are 160 and 140

The disks are 160 and 140 because that is what Doug Burton did.  I have a Monkeybone and OEM2 axleplate.  I keep running out of time, and being incompetent makes me slow anyway, but soon I will start fitting the Hope brakes.  I was trying to design a colour-scheme in a pathetic attempt to outdo Ivan, so the Schmidt dynamo is red too.  I wanted to get red tyres, but I thought they would not fit the Mavic  A119 wheels.  It is a shame that the brakes don't have red bits on them.  I guess I could paint them.  And the spokes.
 

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very nice! does the 135mm oln

very nice!
does the 135mm oln hub fit in the 130mm fork spacing - ie. are the dropouts parallel to the hub locknuts?
which shifter are you going to use?

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The dropouts look as though

The dropouts look as though they are flat-on to the hub.  If there is an angle, it must be a degree or less, because the forks are only slightly spread.  I haven't actually ridden it yet, but I pulled and pushed the wheel and it seems completely secure.

The shifter!  I haven't even thought about it!  AARGH!

 

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That looks great! To confirm

That looks great! To confirm on the brakes, a 160mm disc rotor will fit in the rear if you want them to match.

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Glad it has worked out for

Glad it has worked out for you. As you can see in the picture below, when I installed my Rohloff (also red) and tightened the QR, I had a gap on the disc side drop out due to the drop outs no longer being parallel to the axle in the spread condition. In the end, this is why I decided against using the Rohloff...that and Sheldon Brown and others cautioning against spreading aluminum forks and frames.

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'13 Cruzbike Silvio 2.0 | '13 Barcroft Ti Virginia | '10 HP Velotechnik Scorpion FS | '10 Easy Racer Folding Ti-Rush | '02 Airborne Ti Carpe Diem

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Mine has a tiny gap, almost

Mine has a tiny gap, almost invisible, thinner than a human hair, so I am confident about it.

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how large is the gap when

how large is the gap when the QR is undone? - imho. any gap which is not parallel to the locknuts is a cause for concern. especially on aluminium alloy or carbon forks.
when closed, a good skewer will apply enough force to stress the dropouts into position. not something you want to do. a dropout failure could easily kill you.

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Rohloff fitting

Rohloff hubs really like good fitting dropouts. In this fork, you'd very slightly bend the axle of the Rohloff, which is not a clever thing to do. Bentbierz took the right decision not to use a Rohloff in this fork.

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"Rohloff hubs really like

"Rohloff hubs really like good fitting dropouts. In this fork, you'd very slightly bend the axle of the Rohloff, which is not a clever thing to do. Bentbierz took the right decision not to use a Rohloff in this fork."

I would change to a Rohloff in a heartbeat though if the fork was a 135mm.

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'13 Cruzbike Silvio 2.0 | '13 Barcroft Ti Virginia | '10 HP Velotechnik Scorpion FS | '10 Easy Racer Folding Ti-Rush | '02 Airborne Ti Carpe Diem

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File it the dropouts? 2.5 mm

File it the dropouts?

2.5 mm each side sounds like a small amount to take away.

I think one problem is that the hub is touching the forks as well as the dropouts, because the axle plate is so big.  On my Grasshopper the dropouts are bigger.
 

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Okay, I feel a bit of a twit.

Okay, I feel a bit of a twit.  You all said I should not do it.  The LBS said I should not do it.  They said I should not attempt to file the dropouts either.  I read the thread of georgec, but I could  not do anything like that.  With regret, I am putting the Rohloff on ebay and getting disraeli gears.

I am considering the White 130 disk hub and the Sram XX1.  You are all going to tell me this won't fit either.  Form an orderly queue.
 

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When the White CX11 arrives I

When the White CX11 arrives I will take the wheel to the LBS and ask them to replace the Rohloff with the White.  White say the CX11 fits the Sram XX1, so I am considering that, but can these forks take an 11-speed cassette?  Looking around this forum makes me feel a bit dubious about that.  I like the idea of XX1, but I don't want a repeat of the Rohloff debacle.

I thought that when they decide to make a cassette with more speeds, they design a thinner chain, then make thinner cogs, so the new cassette is the same size as the old one.  We've gone from 5-speed to 10-speed with just a change of chain.  Am I right?  Will a XX1 cassette go where a 10-speed does?

Unfortunately, the White is not red, if you see what I mean.  I have a red SON dynamo, and the Rohloff is red.  There is a red White, but it is the wrong size.

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11 Speed Cassette

There were so many good build threads that I decided not to do one but I have asked questions or posted some of my troubles/solutions along the way. At some point I will finally get a few pictures uploaded.

Regarding 11 speed cassettes...I am running a mix of Red/Force 22 components and can definitively say (at least on my bike) that there is no issue in any gear combination and I question why there would be. An 11 speed stack has the same height as an 8 through 10 speed so I wonder what it is that wouldn't make it work. At any rate...works on mine.

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'13 Cruzbike Silvio 2.0 | '13 Barcroft Ti Virginia | '10 HP Velotechnik Scorpion FS | '10 Easy Racer Folding Ti-Rush | '02 Airborne Ti Carpe Diem

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Right.  Thanks to BentBierz

Right.  Thanks to BentBierz for the wisdom.  XX1 it is, then.
 

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Silvio with Vendetta handlebars

After making an extension for the Silvio (lowering the handlebars) I found the need for more leg room. Through Jim Parker I found a source for the handlebars used on my Vendetta (only $40). These bars are a very nice fit. I also made a simple clip made out of excess boom tube to harness the four cables under the boom.

DSC_3727.JPG DSC_3729.JPG DSC_3733.JPG
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Scabinetguy - After making an

Scabinetguy - After making an extension for the Silvio (lowering the handlebars)

Can you share details of the extension you made to lower the handle bars. I would like to lower mine a little. I see that the 100mm extensions are out of stock.

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Can you share details of the

Can you share details of the extension you made to lower the handle bars. I would like to lower mine a little. I see that the 100mm extensions are out of stock.

In an ideal world, posting a file that explains how the block is made would be ideal (hint hint...)

(Doug had something similar for an adapter to use disc brakes on the rear of a Sofrider).

Of course, we don't really live in an ideal world (but we can dream!)...

p.s. Of course, this only works if it is understood that anybody who picks up and uses such a file has no warranty implied or otherwise.  Use at your own risk.  Living life can be dangerous. Yada yada yada...

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Extension

I make the extension out of a piece of solid aluminum, aprox. 3/4"x 3" x 3". Depends on how long you want the extension. I hog out most of the material with a carbide saw and then use a drill press and a mill for final sizing. It's very important to get everything square and perpendicular otherwise your BB will be out of alignment. I'm too short for a 100mm extension, it would put the handle bars on my lap, 60mm is about right for me. The picture shows one about 3/4 finished.

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EXTENSION

scabinetguy, could you put the dimensions in the attached drawing? So I can make a general drawing for the cruzbike community.

 

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Curious about heat treatment and finishing

Steve,

I'm curious about heat treatment and finishing for your 60mm extension. Does it need heat treatment and if so, how did you do so?

Also, how did you finish it? It looks really good in your photos.

-Eric
 

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50mm might be it

This is so very interesting because I was thinking after looking at both bike with and without the 100mm extension; that for some people a 50mm might be about right. To the point that I was considering sending my 100mm extension over to http://www.purelycustom.com/c-273-make-it-custom.aspx and haveing them clone it as 50mm.  Steve results leave me even more inclined to do that. I like using purelycustom becaue person one has to pay the setup costs; and then others can follow behind and buy for a much cheaper price.  (Assuming person #1 releases the custom part for re-order).

This also leads to thoughts on how hard it is to get ergo on these FWD bikes that works for everyone. I'm a tall 5'9" with equal uniform torso and leg length; and a near 1 to 1 thigh to calf ratio. My wife is 5'7"; with long legs but a shorter than normal calves. I can ride both of our bikes no problems; she can't ride mine at all. She's got tons and tones of handle bar leg clearance on her's because of here short calf. I'm a tight fight on both bikes in any configuration. It's all very interesting.

 

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Extension

Here are the dimensions:   X = 10mm  Y = 8mm  A = 40mm  Z = 68mm  Height = 64mm  O = 8mm  No heat treating. Flat black paint. Hope these measurements will help, I think it's a good idea to get actual measurements from your particular bike.

                                      

    

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EXTENSION

Scabinetguy, could you give me the real dimensions that are in balloons in the attached drawing? My Silvio is currently at the LBS, so I cannot take the measurements myself.

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PDF

I'll try to give this to you in inches.  6 is 0.23", 6.2 is good, 10.2 is 0.375", 10 is 0.375". The 64 is my first prototype, the one in the picture is 58mm. Everything else looks good unless the folks at Cruzbike have any suggestions. The aluminum I used is 7075, I understand that 6061 is also a good choice...Steve

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With the lower seat back

With the lower seat back angle of Silvio 2 and the increasing numbers of people wanting to get extensions (and the highly positive remarks of those who have extensions), could Cruzbike increase the length of the carboyoke by 60mm for a future version? Not make 2 options as John said before that's not sustainable - just make it longer. For the shortest rider a 60mm extension would increase leg length only by 1cm or so plus the boom can always be shortened further. 

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Another option would be for

Another option would be for Cruzbike to drop of build instructions at a milling place so that people can just order what they want online.  Shouldn't cost too much for the user and wouldn't cost Cruzbike anything at all (well, except the time to set it up ).

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Longer carboyoke

I think making the carboyoke longer would open up another can of worms. I would think that as you make it longer you would need to increase the thickness to maintain the proper flex.

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Not sure if I'm the only one,

Not sure if I'm the only one, but I've been having issues with my heels striking the chainstay where it flairs out. I'm considering shorter cranks (currently 172.5mm) but a short chainstay extension would be another fix.

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CHAINSTAY EXTENSION

attached you find a manufacturing drawing (metric or imperial) for an individual chain-stay extension.
The extension length should be less than 100mm (4 inches).
A smooth surface finish is important for the strength of this part.
Be aware that you take full responsibility by adding this part on your bike.

AttachmentSize
EXTENSION.PDF 68.96 KB
EXTENSION_imp.PDF 68.92 KB
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gage insterest

Any one that thinking they might want a shorter extension. Go ahead and email bob (at) mylifeinrecline.com 

I do work with several cnc shops and might do a milling or laser run with anodized finish. So if anyone else thinks they want a 60 or 50mm part you could bundle in with me. Obviously not sanctioned and at your own risk.

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I'm interested!

I'm interested! Emailed Bob!

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2014 Silvio 2.1 & Vendetta TT