T50 - whatcha planning to build.....

Discussion in 'Freedom Series (T50 Complete, and T50 Kit)' started by ratz, Apr 18, 2017.

  1. Lim

    Lim Member

    This is good idea. Show some pics, please. How does your mod laid down the seat?
     
  2. Brad R

    Brad R Active Member

    @Eric Winn

    I went to my local bike shop and they let me borrow headset wrenches. It took a 36mm and a 40mm.

    I tightened it pretty tight and there might still be a little play. It seems solid when manipulating by hand and when riding.

    There is some play in the system when pushing against a locked with brake front wheel. Does this mean that I need to get it tighter?
     
  3. DavidJL

    DavidJL Well-Known Member

    Ah yes, the pix. T50SeatMod1.JPG T50SeatMod2.JPG T50SeatMod3.JPG
     
  4. Eric Winn

    Eric Winn Zen MBB Master

    I'm no bike mechanic, but my preference is to tighten the head bearing stack just enough to remove any play. Since there is a limit to how much that expandable spacer can effectively expand I've tried to to remove as much play as possible before I try and expand it.

    To achieve that, I didn't go by the 9 inch instructions for the steerer tube trim on the second bike. Instead I deburred the inside of the short riser at the clamping slot to make sure I could slide it on and off the steerer tube without it binding and then measured how far down it would go for the top of the steerer tube to reach the end of the flared section. Then I measured up from the top of the spacers/dust cover to the length the extension needed and lopped it off there. It was trimmed a little lower than the 9 inches in the instructions but not by much.

    This allowed me to get the extension flush and as snug as possible on top of the spacer/cover stack with the boom clamp mount slid all the way down too.

    BTW, loosening the bolts on the boom clamp and prying gently with a screw driver just enough to insert a 3.5mm allen wrench handle in the slot will hold the clamp body open just enough to make it easier to slide up and down into position. When you have it where you want it just pull the allen wrench out. It is barely flaring the joint and is not putting much pressure, just holding it slightly open but that little bit of extra room makes everything a lot easier to assemble.

    -Eric
     
    super slim likes this.
  5. ratz

    ratz Wielder of the Rubber Mallet

    Very much so.
    The trick is the grease. I keep fixing bikes with loose head bearing stacks. Every time it's the same thing, not enough grease. Those bearing shoulders or if you prefer the little shelves the bearings sit on. Coat them with enough grease. Pretend your buttering bread, put enough in to get a dirty look from mom. Then it will all compress together nice and tight. The grease is to make the parts fit tightly, not to make to turn. Too light on the grease means too tight on the fasteners and steering that is stiff. Plenty of grease and it will snug right up. Some should ooze out on the frame. Just wipe if off.
     
    Suz and super slim like this.
  6. Brad R

    Brad R Active Member

    Thanks for the lesson.

    Looks like I will have to rebuild and try to borrow the head set wrenches again or buy a set of the wrenches.

    My problem will be gettting things far enough apart to add grease. I had to use the mallet to get the extension on and even then I couldn't get it all the way down to flush. I have about 1/8 inch of the slot showing above the boom clamp.
     
    Gary123 likes this.
  7. ratz

    ratz Wielder of the Rubber Mallet

    Sounds like Eric is on to something with burs from the slot cut. Probably machined in different groups or with out the knowledge that the clean up is important. That is something that likely will get cleaned up in round two of production.

    Try a hair dryer to loosen it up. When it is good and hot shoot wd40 in there and you should be able to loosen. If you need leverage attack your handle bars and stem which make the ultimate leverage.
     
    trapdoor2 likes this.
  8. trapdoor2

    trapdoor2 Zen MBB Master

    I deburred my extension right off the bat...never considered I should say something about it. :oops: Any time I come across a slip-fit like this, I run my fingers (gently) around all the surfaces, inside and out and make sure they're clean. If not, I file or sandpaper until they are. Makes them go together much mo' bettah.

    Hair dryer is excellent for getting the extension off if you need to. Like Bob said, leave the handlebars on so you have something to pull and twist with.
     
  9. trapdoor2

    trapdoor2 Zen MBB Master

    Since the clamps just sit on top of the bottom struts, the bottom struts are the ones to trim.

    Essentially, you open up the clamps, disassemble (the clamps will just slide off) and trim. Because of the curve in the top struts, the clamps will only go so far into that curve...so you trim the bottom strut halves. I'm not sure how much of the top goes into the bottom but if you want to go as low as is shown, you might have to trim some of the top half as well.

    I am probably not going to trim mine...it depends really. I am quite comfy at 45 degrees on my V2/k, so 50 degrees is probably going to be ok.

    Parts are coming in for my build. Got BB and sprockets in. Crank should be here today. My LBS has ordered all the parts for my wheel build (Velocity 559 "Blunt" rims, polished, laced to a silver Shimano Alfine 8 disc hub for front, silver Deore disc rear). Should be done in a week or so.
     
  10. trplay

    trplay Zen MBB Master

    The struts haven't been cut yet, the photo shows me aligning the parts trying to get the Bottom bracket height and seat recline the same as the Vendetta. The seat does not have to be reclined that far to meet this goal. Getting the seat as far back as pictured requires both tubes be cut a lot, to the point it might effect using 26" tires. It would be just as easy to get a couple of aluminum brackets and save the stock bracket for bigger tires. Still not sure which way I'll go as the Zwift cave has the priority right now.
     
  11. snilard

    snilard Guru of hot glue gun

    What crank length do you use?
     
  12. DavidJL

    DavidJL Well-Known Member

    I would drill new holes further up the seat back before cutting the struts. I would even make a replacement strut before cutting. The seat mod I did takes me to the point just before needing a neck rest.
     
  13. Brad R

    Brad R Active Member

    165
     
  14. Brad R

    Brad R Active Member

    As soon as I saw your post about moving the mount location, drilling new holes became my plan. I don't want to cut the seatposts if I don't have too. Drilling holes seems like a much easier task to perform correctly.
     
  15. trplay

    trplay Zen MBB Master

    Moving the mount location only makes a small change which might be perfect for some. Two braces with a cross brace is pretty simple. But, Cruzbike should consider changing the design. A very small change will enable you to go from 90 to almost flat. This is ideal for starting riders who could now drop the seat after they become proficient and directly experience what a difference the aero position will make in downhill speed.
     
    super slim likes this.
  16. defjack

    defjack Zen MBB Master

     
  17. Lim

    Lim Member

    That wheels and tires looks wonderful. I really want to check out the completed version. Can you please share some pics?
     
  18. defjack

    defjack Zen MBB Master

    I want to set my seat between 30 to 45 deg
     
    super slim likes this.
  19. 3WHELZ

    3WHELZ Well-Known Member

    For those in need of a headrest, one for consideration is Optima headrest. I purchased this some time ago for a project. I plan to hold on to it, but thought that it may be of interest.
     

    Attached Files:

    trapdoor2 and super slim like this.
  20. Cruzer1

    Cruzer1 New Member

Share This Page