Vendetta 2.0 unboxing and build

John Tolhurst

Zen MBB Master
I received a shipping notice for my Vendetta with tracking number from Cruzbike on Apr 12, 2013. The framekit box arrived at my house on April 16, 2013. Fast - and the US Postal Service delivered it which surprised me. I was expecting it would show up with UPS or FedEx.

First, it is a surprisingly itty bitty box (approx 43"x15"x6"). I've included a Quest, my KICKR, and Koda for a frame of reference.

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The carton was shipped directly from Taiwan:




Note the handlebars arrive in a separate package, usually along with anything else you ordered directly through cruzbike.com. I am expecting that package today. My order included a SRAM Rival groupset (including rim brakes) that I customized with a lot of help from Jim Parker - Thanks Jim! Let's hope we did it right, I am using a SRAM mountain back RD and an 11x36 cassette. I also ordered the Aero 67s (rim brake) wheels offered by Cruzbike and a few other odds and ends.

I originally ordered my Vendetta on Sep 14, 2012 just as they ran out of framestock. Although it has been a long wait due to the transition to John Tolhurst's brilliant new hydroformed main frame tube I am very, very pleased despite the wait because I am amazed, bemused, and delighted at this next generation of the Vendetta.

After I found out this next generation would include disc brake tabs I began researching disc brakes along with a hub dynamo as I am interested in ultracycling and perhaps randonnuering which can require a lot of night and all weather riding. More to follow on this in a separate build post but I am thinking Avid BB7 Road SL with 160mm rotor front and 140mm rotor rear along with an SP PD-7 switchable dyno hub on a Velocity 700c reflective road disc wheelset. I'm signed up for the 2013 National 24 Hour Challenge on June 15,16 and I want to also try racing in the 29th Annual Michigan Human Powered Vehicle Association Rally on May 18,19 so for now I'll just use the SRAM Rival set with the Aero 67s unless I can corrall the disc wheelset changes together quickly.

Now, back to the unboxing.

Opening shows tightly but well padded contents:



Here is what came out first:



Finally exposing the frame everyone has been wildly anticipating:



Which came out with chainstay and headrest cleverly and carefully interwoven with the new HF frame:



Leaving just the boom and other bits like the skewers, headset bearings, paint touch up bottle, etc:





Here is the new fiberglass seat and cushions. Based on a discussion with Jim Parker, this is a fiberglass prototype with a carbon fiber top skin for good looks with an actual carbon fiber seat to follow that John is still working on. Jim and.or John may have further clarification or corrections for this.



It is defintely shiny and pretty on this side:



But not so good here. Serviceable, but the Vendetta will be better suited with the actual CF seat still in-work:



As you unwrap your goodies, you will want to inspect each part closely. I noticed a small machining burr inside the BB housing on the boom. It brushed off with just a tiny flick of the finger so nothing of importance. As fthills also noted on his Vendetta 2.0 unboxing, you will want to check threads carefully for paint, etc.



Here is the boom and the headrest. Note the new filler foam for the end of the frame since the headrest now fits inside the frame instead of being bolted to the seat:



In this photo, you can see the clever way John arranged to pack his clever scissor-jack style internal-to-frame headrest clamp. You can just see the foam insert for the end of the frame which plugs the hole where the headrest tubes stick out from the end of the open frametube.



Another view of the foam plug:



Here is one of the first things folks will see as you cross the finish line! Isn't it beautiful?



BB ring clamps, FD stalk, and chainstay assembly. I don't think John made any changes here but he can confirm:



Unpacking the new centerpiece - woohoo!



The hydroforming surprised me. There are are lot more details and nuances to John's design than I expected. There is a lot of really cool geometry in this thing. Note the end is not just a rounded triangle but has more defined fluted corners, if you will, for where the headrest tubes rest. Very slick.



Note the velcro strips that hold the seat onto the frame were apparently applied with a bit too much tension as you can see the adhesive has come a little unstuck. Just press it back down and it will be fine. Once you ride it a bit the pressure of your weight and the seat pan will probably result in the adhesive sticking and staying in place without pulling up like this again.



Here is the new head angle and internal cable routing:




Another angle. The little horns you see at the bottom of the curve are seat stays or braces



Damn! Dented in transit - kidding. This is the new tire dimple. Cute, yes?



Here is the side view. That is just so cool...



Closer view:



Despite the tight packing everything was well padded but I did get one small shipping blemish on the rear disc brake tab. No worries however as John includes a bottle of touch up paint with each frameset.



I did advise John and Jim that they need to add something to better pad the little seat stay horns as one side punctured through my box during transit. Fortunately, no chipped paint but just a very light scuff - but it is not really noticeable.



General overview:



New seat needs a bit of fitting TLC. I expect John's carbon fiber replacement will clean up these minor issues.



The velcro strip for the bottom seat pan was not put in the correct location. It needs to be moved back so it lines up with the corresponding velcro strip on the seat stay horns:



The leading edge of the bottom seat pan will need some sort of padding or another bit of velcro strips or other solution to prevent this edge from rubbing through the pain on the frame at this point:



Here is the new fork disc brake tab:



That is all I have for the unboxing. I'll be creating a separate build thread later.

John Tohurst, as has been said before, "I dips me lid to you". Truly a marvelous and delightful design.

-Eric

 

Eric Winn

Zen MBB Master
Well Charles, the wheels,

Well Charles, the wheels, handlebars, gruppo and misc just got delivered so I have to carefully take pictures while unwrapping, torment you by making you wait, contemplate if I have everything I need to start assembly, torment you some more by again making you wait, ponder a bit more... And then probably at that point finally start the assembly with your help because you used your physicist-driven impatience to invent a teleporter to zap over here so you could see it and help me build it.

How about them apples? -grin-

Can I use your teleporter to get to the various ultracylcing events around the country (world)? I'm finding travel to them overly expensive...

-Eric
 

Charles.Plager

Recumbent Quant
Yes Eric.  As soon as I make

Yes Eric. As soon as I make a teleporter, you can use it to get to whatever ultracycling events you want. :D
 

Rod

New Member
Wow Eric nice job on your

Wow Eric nice job on your post of unpacking your new Vendetta. Look forward to your next report.
 

kenhardwick

Well-Known Member
Christmas in April !!!

Thanks for sharing your excitement !! Already thinking I will be replacing my 9 month Silvio with the soon to be released hydroformed Silvio.
 

Eric Winn

Zen MBB Master
Repositioned the velcro for

Repositioned the velcro for the seat horns:

First, while the seat bottom was stuck on the frame at the correct place, I marked the outline of the horns so I knew where they lined up on the seat bottom:



Then I peeled off the incorrectly placed strip:



And trimmed it into 3 pieces to fit around the longitudinally running strips. I tried to avoid the areas where the sticky had something that looked like pieces of the backing paper still stuck to it. Tried to peel whatever this was off but it didn't want to go anywhere. I ended up pretty much avoiding it.



And here it is stuck back on the frame velcro but now including the horn strips as well:




 

Eric Winn

Zen MBB Master
Cruzbike Aero 67s wheelset unboxing

I thought others might appreciate some photos of the Cruzbike Aero 67s wheelset since there doesn't seem to be any decent ones on the product page so here you go:



A little bit of shipping squish, but no worries they are packed well:









Hey who put that Official Timed and Certified Results 2013 Bike Sebring Century Race certificate there? Good thing you can't really read the ahem ( sarcasm ) impressive (/ sarcasm ) 7:26:24 time on it. Wish I had the Vendetta and these wheels instead of the Quest, even though the Quest is a really nice Cruzbike too.



Check out the logos on the hubs. Pretty sweet.



You can also see the bladed spokes in this image.



-Eric



 

Jim Gerwing

Well-Known Member
I got mine, too.

Heh Eric et al:
I received my Vendetta in the mail today.
Nice pics by the way and they confirm everything that I received right down to the scuffed seat stay.
i ordered only the frame and plan to cannibalize my DF (Allez Expert, mostly Shimano Ultegra parts).
I'll probably take it to the local bike shop for assembly.
Training is going well on the Quest, I'll switch over to the Vendetta in a week or so.
Here's hoping,
Jim
 

ak-tux

Zen MBB Master
Wow! I didn't know that

Wow! I didn't know that Velcro is strong enough to hold a seat pan in place even under load. Is there any nut and bolt somewhere to secure the the seat?
 

Eric Winn

Zen MBB Master
Nope, just velcro but

Nope, just velcro but consider the size and shape of the mounting surfaces.

This isn't your usual point load mounting system, the support is spread along the entire length of the HF frame. The only bit not resting directly on the frame is about 3-3/4" of the top of the seat back.

Consider the Quest seat. The bottom pan sits on three padded metal tabs welded to the frame. Two bolts hold the bottom seat pan to slots in one of the tabs. The seat back has two bolts at the outer ends of the bottom edge which bolt to corresponding holes in the trailing edge of the bottom pan. The top of the seat back is supported by two small seat stays which in turn mount to the top of the seat post.

?So with roughly the same seat geometry for both seat pans, the Quest is using a small fraction of the surface area between frame or mounts and the seat parts.

All that being said, I'm curious as to how it will work too. With the seat in place on the frame and nothing else assembled, grasping the frame with one hand and the seat back with the other and pressing back and forth results in some movement. Putting the frame on carpet and gently sitting in it and moving your torso around, twisting, turning, etc. results in feeling some movement. In contrast the Quest seat is quite rigid.

It will have to wait until I start actually riding but to this point it feels different but OK somehow so I'm reserving judgement.

I know John did a lot of test riding of his prototype and he said he was really enjoying how it felt. Knowing how John observes, records, and analyzes body feel and ride feedback I am pretty optimistic about it.

-Eric
 
Seat attached with only velcro?

Wow. I'm having a hard time stomaching the fact that the seat is only attached with velcro. It seems like the lack of a rigid connection would seriously affect how stable and solid one feels on the bike. Also, the top is not attached. When I bridge my weight goes completely onto the top section of the seat. Hopefully the velcro is strong enough to hold.
 

John Tolhurst

Zen MBB Master
Velcro in sheer is impossible

Velcro in sheer is impossible to shift, so that seat is never going to slide around. Its impossible to sit on the bike unless weight is centered over the seat, so the wide HF tube surface is easily able to hold the seat from rocking sideways. As you ride, the velcro presses closer and closer together. Until then, I pick up the rear of the bike by the headrest. There is a down side, which is that anyone who saw the bike parked somewhere and realised the seat was attached that way might peel it off. The solution here is to drill through the tabs left and right and fit two M5 button head bolts.
 

Eric Winn

Zen MBB Master
Need template for proper velcro strip alignment

I noticed my seat back was not centered on the HF tube even though I had it centered on the velcro.

To correct this, I used a quick and easy but somewhat sloppy template method of temporaily taping some bright cord to the seat to make sure the strips were properly placed. The outer edges of the velcro strips should be aligned with the inside the bright cord.

Incorrect alignment:



Top width measure on frame:



Comparison measure at top of seat back. I also measured at several other points on both frame and seat back to make sure my string-template positioning matched the frame tube measurements. Note the measure is more narrow at the base of the seat back so the lines are flaring very slightly from base to top.



Corrected velcro placement. Fortunately the adhesive is not bonding all that tightly to the rough back of the prototype seat so it came up and went back down in one piece without any problems. I would suggest the production carbon fiber seat be finished to the smooth, high gloss that is on the top of this one for both front and back and the framekit be delivered with a paper template perhaps and the velcro strips loose for the new owner to install. Note that this will likely be a one-shot-and-I-better-get-it-right operation on a flat, glossy surface as the adhesion is much, much better and it is hard to pull it back up again without making a mess of it.

Note: the black object at the top edge and under the seat is the seat cushion.



This was a somewhat annoying find since it is very easy to get right the first time. Hopefully John will either insure it gets done right at the factory or leaves it to the owner along with proper instructions so they can finesse it to their satisfaction.

Locating the seat pans correctly:

One other thing I did was to use a Sharpie with an Ultra Fine Point to carefully mark the frame tube to make it easier to remove and install the seat pans and achieve consistent results. I'm thinking this should be a permanent mark, perhaps painted on or by using a decal.

I am also thinking that hollow tube with the large lightening holes could be a good place to stick a spare tube, tools, and/or other little small bits that you don't use very often but need to have when things do go awry. If it isn't too much of a hassle to peel the seat off and put it back, this could be really handy and another plus for the velcro method.

FYI, once the seat bits are mated to the frametube with the velcro it takes some effort to peel the things back apart.

The frametube has a complex curve as do the seat parts. Seat pans mated to frame tube needs to have the curves properly aligned.

These small marks make it easy to do. Note that rubbing alcohol will remove the Sharpie marks.

Location of the joint between seat bottom and seat back:


Location of leading edge of seat bottom:




-Eric

 

Eric Winn

Zen MBB Master
Caution: Rubbing alcohol will

Caution: Rubbing alcohol will also tend to dissolve the adhesive on the back of the velcro strips so use a q-tip or small cloth and very little rubbing alcohol if you do want to wipe off these positioning marks.

-Eric
 
That's a good idea about

That's a good idea about storing tubes, etc inside the frame - as long as they don't slide down into a hard to reach place. I'd hate to have to shake my bike upside down trying to retrieve whatever I stored in there!
 

Eric Winn

Zen MBB Master
Bolts through carbon fiber or fiberglass

John,

You said, The solution here is to drill through the tabs left and right and fit two M5 button head bolts.

A couple of thoughts:
  • I think you would want a metal plate or something similar laminated into the seat structure where the bolt is going to pass through to reduce the chances of stress cracks radiating out from the holes. Keeping in mind the need to seal any metal from direct contact with carbon fiber to prevent corrosion. Of course, this make your layup a bit more complicated and adds some expense.
  • For this method, I personally would want threads machined into the holes drilled into the seat horns/tabs or a threaded insert with the bolt sized not to protrude past the bottom side of the horn when correctly torqued down. After all, we want the bottom side to stay pretty so when we do an emergency stoppie the riders behind us still get a nice view as they plow into us - right?
-Eric
 

Charles.Plager

Recumbent Quant
Hi Eric,
As always, I'm very


Hi Eric,

As always, I'm very much enjoying watching your progress.

The only question I've got now: When are you going to start your own blog? :D
 

Eric Winn

Zen MBB Master
Installed the tires

This is the rim tape I purchased and received from Cruzbike. Very easy to put on.



I found it was best to start the tape at the valve stem hole, stick the tube valve stem into the valve stem hole in the wheel and through the corresponding hole in the rim tape to help keep the rim tape valve stem hole centered. I just let the tube dangle to the side while I worked the rim tape around the wheel until it snapped fully into place.

I then checked it to make sure it was smooth and centered all the way around and then removed the tube and checked the valve stem hole to make sure the hole in the rim tape lined up.

I bought Continental GatorHardshells, 23mm, folded bead tires. I wanted durability over feather lightness:



You can see the front tire won't be getting any big knobbies anytime soon. The fork is not mounted. I very gently set it into the head tube and as gently inserted the wheel to check this clearance. The frame was being gently held upside down in my Park Tool PCS-10.



The rear wheel dropouts were way too tight to accept the wheel assembly. As noted in John's assembly information I had to pretty much file off all of the paint on the flat surfaces to get a correct fit. I think it would be better to have the rear dropouts polished like the front fork in lieu of painting them.

Below is after the first attempt at some light sanding with a nail file. Still too tight. Filed more. Still too tight. Kept filing and checking but didn't get a good fit until almost all of the paint was removed from the flat edges.



Very gently clamped and staged for a photo with the wheels:



-Eric
 

John Tolhurst

Zen MBB Master
Sorry about the rear

Sorry about the rear dropouts. That is something that I must have done before shipping. It comes from using forged dropouts from a catalog. No chance to respec the width to allow for paint.
 

Andrew 1973

Zen MBB Master
looks great so far

I've enjoyed watching the unbox and build so far. It almost like building it myself without having to explain my purchase to my wife.
 
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