Solo touring in Norway on a loaded Vendetta

Tor Hovland

Well-Known Member
Hi! I'm home after a 4 day, 700 km/435 mi tour between Trondheim and Oslo, and I thought I'd write up a ride report.

Motivation

I have an old Bacchetta Giro 26 that I've used on a 400 km brevet, as well as a few overnight trips. But I've never done a real multiday tour before, and this September I had the opportunity to do it, using the Vendetta I bought second-hand just before the summer.

Living in Trondheim, the most obvious option would be heading north along the Coastal Route, one of the world’s top 101 scenic routes, according to National Geographic. But autumn in Norway can be very wet, and I failed to plan an itinerary that agreed well with the weather report. Heading south toward Oslo looked much better. The only predicted rain would be the final stretch of day 3. Another motivation for going to Oslo is that many people I know have ridden the Great Trial of Strength, a 540 km/340 mi race from Trondheim to Oslo, but I'm not allowed to enter with a recumbent. In fact, recumbents were banned in the middle of the 1997 event, when M5 founder Bram Moens shattered the course record. So I have been thinking for a while that I should do a solo trip to Oslo.

Route

But I didn't want to just do the same route as the race, because that follows the primary road between the two cities. Instead I wanted to go further east, staying close to the Swedish border most of the distance. I wanted to make the most of the daylight, which lasts until 19:30 at this time of the year. The area I was going to cover is quite thinly populated, and it was almost a given that the first stopover would have to be the old mining town of Røros, a UNESCO World Heritage town. This leg is 200 km/124 mi. Based on that, a second stop should be in Trysil, and then another one around Kongsvinger.

Bike setup

When I bought the Vendetta, it was setup with a compact crank and a 12-30T cassette. Where I live, 10% hills are common. You'll also find shorter sections of about 15%. Given that I wanted to ride long distances at an easy pace, on a loaded bike, I clearly needed the lowest gearing possible. After some research I settled on an 11-speed 11-42T cassette. This gives a huge tooth range of 31 (rear) + 16 (front) = 47T. The only derailleur specced to handle that is the Shimano XT M8000. As this is an MTB part, I also needed a Jtek Shiftmate to make it work with the road brifters.

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I was thinking that 11-42T might be overkill, but if so, I would replace the compact crank with a normal one and get some higher gearing on the top end. However, the cassette turned out perfectly. I definitely used the lowest gear many times, and I was able to climb absolutely all the hills without getting off. At the same time, I never felt that I needed even lower gearing, which would have made the bike hard to handle anyway.

I also had a new handlebar, the 44 cm Ritchey VentureMax WCS, recommended by ratz. They are nice and wide, like I wanted, and I agree that the 46 cm option would probably feel too wide for most people.

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I only mounted some small LED lights, as I wasn't planning any night riding. I also rode with a Garmin Edge on the handlebar and a Forerunner on my wrist.

On the Bacchetta, I have been using Radical Banana panniers with a rack, and I would have to try to use these on the Vendetta without a rack. The smaller Banana Racers are the only ones designed to work without a rack, but I'm happy to report that my bigger panniers worked very well over the Vendetta seat. I really had no issues with them at all.

Shortly before the tour, I received some goodies from Cruzbike, i.e. a Ventisit pad, the Scarab and Sling bags, the neck rest bottle cages, and the security flag. As I was able to fit everything I needed into the Banana panniers, I didn't need any other bags for this ride. But the other stuff were mounted.

20180914_074610_1280.jpg

I literally only did a quick test lap up and down my street before setting off on the longest ride of my life with this setup :)

Regarding the Ventisit pad, I must admit that it wasn't as comfortable as I was hoping for. It looks much better on the bike, and it is mostly OK to use, but the top end was digging into my spine and caused some discomfort. I'm not sure if it is an inch too short, or simply too firm. I tried putting the pad higher on the seat, but there isn't much to go on before it becomes too short on the front end. I also thought it perhaps just needed some breaking in, but you would think 700 km should be sufficient :)

I'm going to try the stock pad again and compare. If anybody knows about a pad as good-looking as the Ventisit and as comfortable as a Bacchetta Euromesh, let me know!

Luggage

I had arranged for hotels, and was not going to bring camping equipment on this ride. This is what I packed:
  • Rain gear and shoe covers
  • Several shorts and extra jersey
  • Wool base layer
  • Civilian clothes and shoes
  • Some tools
  • Spare tire and tube
  • Lock
  • Toiletries
  • Chargers for phone, Garmins and earbuds
The temperature varied between 0 C/32 F and 14 C/57 F, hence I was always wearing a jacket and long tights.

Day 1

I set off around 8 on the Friday morning, knowing that I wouldn't have a lot of spare time for fooling around if I was going to get to Røros before it got dark. This first leg was not only the longest (205 km/127 mi), it was also by far the steepest (2377 m/7800 ft).

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Rather than going the typical road past the airport, I headed into the woods along Jonsvatnet, Trondheim's source of drinking water. Then I went east over the only gravel section planned for this trip, until I had to tackle the first big climb over to Selbu lake.

At this point, just a couple of hours into the ride, I started feeling some very disconcerting knee pain. I have had issues with my right knee in the past, but that has been pretty much under control recently, and I have completed many long rides without issues. To be feeling knee pain here is really bad timing. It wasn't even in my problematic right knee, but the left one. I decided to just go on and see how it developed.

After the first break at a gas station in Selbu, famous for their woolen mittens, I experienced the closest thing to road rage on this trip. I was riding up a small hill and during a left hand turn I had three cars behind. They couldn't immediately pass me due to the blind turn. After the turn, the first car with an elderly couple in it slowly passed, then it almost stopped in front of me. I had to start re-overtaking it, at which point the car sped up and drove on. I gave them a wave of disapproval (no impolite gestures), and the driver responded with a crazy gesture. When these things happen, I wonder what it is the person thinks I should have done differently. It was not like I held them up for minutes, it was more like 20-30 seconds.

Incidentally, shortly after this another car honked as he passed me in the opposite direction. I was not blocking him or anybody else. I can only assume he wanted me to use the bicycle path that had just appeared to the left of the road, which is what I intended to do also, I just needed him to pass me first :)

Happily, I had no other incidents like that for the rest of the ride. In general, drivers behaved exceptionally well. I had one or two more honks, and a handful of drivers could have bothered to give me a bit more space when overtaking, but that's it.

Between the 110 and 150 kilometer marks I'm into the other serious uphill section, going from 250 m/820 ft before Tydal, where I stop for a hot dog to 900 m/2950 ft after Stugudalen, where I had a nice Belgian waffle with ice cream. My knees were continuing to bother me along this stretch, and eventually it occurred to me that the thicker Ventisit pad would have affected the crank distance, so I push the boom a little further out. Thinking about other causes, I remember moving my cleats all the way back earlier this season, based on a recommendation on this forum. So I move the cleats forward to where I've always had them. Finally, I pull on my wool trousers under the tights, and the extra insulation immediately feels relieving.

Near the top, I get a nice view of Stugu lake with the Sylan mountains in the background.

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From here until Røros I'm basically in the wilderness.

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I spot a few reindeer:

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The bike is making a funny shadow:

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In Røros, I find myself an American (!) diner and get some fuel.

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As I walk back to the hotel, I feel shooting pain in my left knee, and I'm seriously worried that I would have to abandon here and jump on the train home. That would be bad, as I have prepaid the remaining hotels and the train from Oslo.

I decide to do all I can to take care of my knees, and after a quick brainstorm I come up with strapping tape, knee warmers and ibuprofen. I will do some shopping the next morning.

This leg is available on Strava.
 

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Tor Hovland

Well-Known Member
Day 2

Breakfast isn't until 9, and the shops don't open until 10, so there is no rush. I manage to get all I need, and I set off at about 10:30. Much to my surprise, the knees feel fine. I was assuming it to be due to the ibuprofen, but I didn't need to take any more of that, and the knees were manageable for the rest of the ride. My best guess is that the non-optimal bike fit as well as the cold weather was giving me trouble on day 1.

In fact, today turned out to be the nicest part of the entire ride. I had very little traffic, pretty smooth tarmac, no major hills, and great scenery.

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After 70 km I stop and admire the great Femunden lake, the second largest natural lake in Norway:

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My plan is to stop for food at a cafeteria by a remote road crossing called Sølenstua at the 110 km mark, but when I get there it is closed. Luckily, I had something in my bag I could eat while researching an alternative. It turned out I had to ride for 20 more km to a gas station in Engerdal, where I had a hot dog. Although that stretch included a small climb, it was mostly downhill, and went by quickly. After the stop, I was eager to get to my hotel in Trysil, 54 km away. With only one small climb and the rest either flat or downhill, and with good help from some tailwind, I pressed on, and got there within 2 hours.

During this last stretch I started feeling pain in my achilles tendons. I've experienced that once before, toward the end of my 400 km brevet, and this time I had also gone about 400 km these two days. But I also believe that the cleat adjustment I did played a part. I can see that "everybody" recommends moving the cleats back to prevent achilles inflammation, so I will do that.

Trysil is a bike-friendly town, due to Trysil Bike Arena (I took my family there twice this summer), and the hotel even had a secure bike storage container!

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This leg is available on Strava.
 

Tor Hovland

Well-Known Member
Day 3

Today started off as a cold, misty morning. The temperature even dropped below freezing for a bit, but the road was dry and there was no problem riding.

20180916_092947_960.jpg

The plan for today was originally to ride into Sweden, making this the longest leg of the ride. However, I didn't want to aggravate my knees and achilles any more than necessary, so I decided to take the shortest route to my next stopover in Kongsvinger. This meant going southwest to Elverum for 70 km on a road with more car traffic than I prefer. This road also turned out to be more hilly than I thought. After just 20 minutes, the first hill was a 200 m/650 ft climb. There were a couple more hills like that, but at least that provided some long descents down to Elverum, where I stopped for a proper warm meal of chicken stew.

20180916_110628_1280.jpg

The remaining 100 km to Kongsvinger were pretty flat, along the west bank of Glomma, Norway's longest river. The main road is on the east bank, so for me this was a relaxed ride along lots and lots of farmland.

Remember the predicted rain at the end of day 3? Well, the weather along the entire ride turned out exactly as predicted while I was planning it, which I think is an amazing testament to modern weather forecasting. So I got wet, but I didn't mind. I didn't even bother putting rain trousers on. I knew I had all my stuff safely wrapped in plastic bags inside my panniers. The only problem was, as discovered in my hotel room, that rain had sprayed into the panniers, and the plastic bags were not sufficiently keeping the water out. But no worries, just a few minutes with an iron, and I had OK clothes for the evening.

This leg is available on Strava.

Day 4

Leaving Kongsvinger in the morning, not heading straight for Oslo by going west, but instead continuing along National Cycle Road #9 heading south.

20180917_090630_1280.jpg

This was also a minor road with very little traffic.

20180917_093800_1280.jpg

During a coffee break in Skotterud, I realized that I hadn't missed the opportunity to visit Sweden on this trip. In fact, I would be passing closer to the border than ever, and a short detour along a gravel road would take me into the neighboring country. The image below will probably seem surreal to American readers (and European too, for that matter) when I tell you that this is an actual EU border crossing. This is literally all there is to it. No buildings, and no people to be seen anywhere. Which isn't that surprising, because there are also hiking trails criss-crossing the border all over the place. To be fair, although Norway is not a member of the EU, we are still in the common market and the Schengen area. So this isn't really a hard EU border at all, but simply a state crossing within the world’s largest visa-free zone.

20180917_113939_1280.jpg

I didn't get deep enough into Sweden to visit anything worth mentioning, but I found it amusing that every cluster of two or more houses had its own official place name sign. Here's the lake I passed, ironically named the North Sea!

20180917_115113_1280.jpg

Going back to Norway, I had to tackle some seriously steep climbs. Due to the low gearing, this was no problem, and the gravel roads weren't really any problem either, even with 23 and 25 mm tires. Before I bought the Vendetta, I was undecided between it and the Silvio. I needed a bike suitable for brevets and touring, not just a pure racing bike. On the other hand, the appeal of a faster recumbent is what made me interested in Cruzbike in the first place. I decided on a Vendetta, and thankfully I can say that it is handling steep climbs, firm gravel roads, and lots of luggage without any problem. Having said that, I'm not happy with the hydration setup. The bottle cages behind the neck rest are hard to administer, and I end up drinking too little. On the Bacchetta I made a hydration bladder sleeve hanging under the seat, with the drinking tube easily accessible using velcro. I think it would be a good idea to put a bladder in one of the panniers and do something similar. That's not going to help when I'm not touring, though. I suppose I should try a boom-mounted bottle cage as well.

After the gravel detour, the ride into Bjørkelangen was another scenic route.

20180917_134017_1280.jpg

However, the ride from Bjørkelangen to Fetsund was not very nice, because I had to stay on a relatively high traffic road. Cars where queuing up behind, until I could skip into the next bus stop and let them pass.

On the other hand, from Fetsund, through Lillestrøm, and into Oslo, I had bike lanes all the way and I could relax.

Finally, I could do the obligatory snapshot outside the opera house:

20180917_175451_960.jpg

Then it was time to celebrate with a nice steak, dessert, some beers, and finally in bed on the night train home.

20180917_190716_960.jpg

This leg is available on Strava.
 
Last edited:

Rod Butler

Well-Known Member
Great report and snaps. Fantastic.
I've done a couple of tours lately...
Paris to Mont San Michel, ...and last week...
Glasgow to Scarborough via Edinburgh.

I've been meaning to write them up here but I'm a bit embarrassed now....
...you set a high bar for trip reports m'man!
That was an excellent read. I did more of the tent/camping thing myself, I'll post soon. Well done
 

Robert O

Well-Known Member
Cool travelogue, Tor. I got a chance to ride in Trondheim a few summers ago, but only for a day. I rode an old borrowed hybrid from up past Munkvoll down into town and up towards Lade. I really enjoyed the area.
 

Rod Butler

Well-Known Member
Day 3

Today started off as a cold, misty morning. The temperature even dropped below freezing for a bit, but the road was dry and there was no problem riding.

View attachment 7276

The plan for today was originally to ride into Sweden, making this the longest leg of the ride. However, I didn't want to aggravate my knees and achilles any more than necessary, so I decided to take the shortest route to my next stopover in Kongsvinger. This meant going southwest to Elverum for 70 km on a road with more car traffic than I prefer. This road also turned out to be more hilly than I thought. After just 20 minutes, the first hill was a 200 m/650 ft climb. There were a couple more hills like that, but at least that provided some long descents down to Elverum, where I stopped for a proper warm meal of chicken stew.

View attachment 7277

The remaining 100 km to Kongsvinger were pretty flat, along the west bank of Glomma, Norway's longest river. The main road is on the east bank, so for me this was a relaxed ride along lots and lots of farmland.

Remember the predicted rain at the end of day 3? Well, the weather along the entire ride turned out exactly as predicted while I was planning it, which I think is an amazing testament to modern weather forecasting. So I got wet, but I didn't mind. I didn't even bother putting rain trousers on. I knew I had all my stuff safely wrapped in plastic bags inside my panniers. The only problem was, as discovered in my hotel room, that rain had sprayed into the panniers, and the plastic bags were not sufficiently keeping the water out. But no worries, just a few minutes with an iron, and I had OK clothes for the evening.

This leg is available on Strava.

Day 4

Leaving Kongsvinger in the morning, not heading straight for Oslo by going west, but instead continuing along National Cycle Road #9 heading south.

View attachment 7278

This was also a minor road with very little traffic.

View attachment 7279

During a coffee break in Skotterud, I realized that I hadn't missed the opportunity to visit Sweden on this trip. In fact, I would be passing closer to the border than ever, and a short detour along a gravel road would take me into the neighboring country. The image below will probably seem surreal to American readers (and European too, for that matter) when I tell you that this is an actual EU border crossing. This is literally all there is to it. No buildings, and no people to be seen anywhere. Which isn't that surprising, because there are also hiking trails criss-crossing the border all over the place. To be fair, although Norway is not a member of the EU, we are still in the common market and the Schengen area. So this isn't really a hard EU border at all, but simply a state crossing within the world’s largest visa-free zone.

View attachment 7280

I didn't get deep enough into Sweden to visit anything worth mentioning, but I found it amusing that every cluster of two or more houses had its own official place name sign. Here's the lake I passed, ironically named the North Sea!

View attachment 7281

Going back to Norway, I had to tackle some seriously steep climbs. Due to the low gearing, this was no problem, and the gravel roads weren't really any problem either, even with 23 and 25 mm tires. Before I bought the Vendetta, I was undecided between it and the Silvio. I needed a bike suitable for brevets and touring, not just a pure racing bike. On the other hand, the appeal of a faster recumbent is what made me interested in Cruzbike in the first place. I decided on a Vendetta, and thankfully I can say that it is handling steep climbs, firm gravel roads, and lots of luggage without any problem. Having said that, I'm not happy with the hydration setup. The bottle cages behind the neck rest are hard to administer, and I end up drinking too little. On the Bacchetta I made a hydration bladder sleeve hanging under the seat, with the drinking tube easily accessible using velcro. I think it would be a good idea to put a bladder in one of the panniers and do something similar. That's not going to help when I'm not touring, though. I suppose I should try a boom-mounted bottle cage as well.

After the gravel detour, the ride into Bjørkelangen was another scenic route.

View attachment 7282

However, the ride from Bjørkelangen to Fetsund was not very nice, because I had to stay on a relatively high traffic road. Cars where queuing up behind, until I could skip into the next bus stop and let them pass.

On the other hand, from Fetsund, through Lillestrøm, and into Oslo, I had bike lanes all the way and I could relax.

Finally, I could do the obligatory snapshot outside the opera house:

View attachment 7283

Then it was time to celebrate with a nice steak, dessert, some beers, and finally in bed on the night train home.

View attachment 7284

This leg is available on Strava.

....just what a cyclist on tour needs at the end of a hard day!
 

ed72

Zen MBB Master
Thank you for writing your touring story up.

My biggest regret from my extensive touring days (mostly 80's and 90's) was not touring Scandinavian countries.

Europe has changed so much in 30-40 years. I suppose I have been there 100-150 times over that period.

France and Germany had dropped border crossings first. I think this was mid 80's. Then there was a terrorist bombing IIRC in Paris, they put the border crossing guards back up. I had crossed from Germany into France and back and forth in the middle of the night and did not know about the re-institution of passport stamps and checks and upon re-entry, France would not let me in because I was missing a stamp or some silliness. I explained I crossed in the middle of the night and nobody was here (small mountain pass in the Alpes). They detained me for hours while conferring with bossed in Paris, they ultimately issued me a 48 hour diplomatic transit visa and off I went gourging on Beaufort and Compte cheese and unbelievable bread. The controls are still gone and if you look really hard, you can still find good bread.
 

Karl42

Active Member
I have been using Radical Banana panniers with a rack, and I would have to try to use these on the Vendetta without a rack. The smaller Banana Racers are the only ones designed to work without a rack, but I'm happy to report that my bigger panniers worked very well over the Vendetta seat. I really had no issues with them at all.

Hi Tor,
Great ride report. Makes me long to ride in Scandinavia again.
What size are your Radical Banana Panniers? They come in size S, M, and L.
 
That sounds great Tor, good write up. I've spent some time in Hammerfest with work, so was looking forward to your northern trip. Perhaps next time.
 
On the Bacchetta, I have been using Radical Banana panniers with a rack, and I would have to try to use these on the Vendetta without a rack. The smaller Banana Racers are the only ones designed to work without a rack, but I'm happy to report that my bigger panniers worked very well over the Vendetta seat. I really had no issues with them at all.
@Tor Hovland,
Can you tell me what size panniers you used? They look like the medium.
 

billyk

Guru
Great report! Amazing how you keep your bike so clean on all those country roads, especially with gravel, mist, rain. Mine looks worse than that just riding around the block on a sunny day.
 

3bs

whereabouts unknown
great read. now if this day job wasnt always taking up my time.....

i have never been able to work the bottles in back. or behind the seat i rigged a double bottle behind the seat with a drinking tube, for a while, then i went to a simpler set up, and for any ride over an hour, i just hang a bag with a bladder under the seat and clip the tube to my shirt.
 

CruzLike

Guru
Tor,
Sorry I missed this epic ride report last month. This was an excellent tour and ride report. One item that I liked was all the links to the item mentioned. I went to all of them.

I could tell you about the border crossing between US and Mexico. Politically it's a major article of contention between the parties. If I told you more I might get banned. (from CBF)

Keep Pedaling
 

BikeGary

Well-Known Member
What a wonderful trip report! I missed this when you first posted it, and now I just spent a few minutes day dreaming of bike touring! Thank you! What was your front chainring setup? 34/50?" I saw the 11/42 for the rear.
 
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